Here is the photo:
Here is a Jackson Pollock:
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She is adapting to the climate. She said when the temperature drops to around 80 degrees, it feels cool to her now. Sleeping is ok. The room where she sleeps has a window on one wall and a door on the opposite wall so the air flows thru to keep the temperature bearable. The rainy season is upon them so the temperatures are much cooler than when she first arrived in Burkina Faso. When it is too warm, she has slept out doors with her mosquito netting. She said it seems weird to get into bed at night and find the sheets warm to the touch compared to the cool feel of the sheets back home in the states.
She also feels she is adjusting more to the culture and feels more “African” every day.
Disclaimer: The contents of this page, and all links appearing on this page, do not represent the positions, views or intents of the U.S. Government, or the United States Peace Corps. The Letters From Africa have had their content modified but the message remains intact.
Hello All,
It's time for a major update.
So, site visit was this past week. I had a big adventure. I will deliberately leave out my sites name, so this can be posted online for others to read. A large group of us left Wednesday morning at 6:15 to head to Ouaga with our counterparts. We lucked out and had our own STMB bus. Then I continued on to Bobo with my counterpart who by the way is pretty great. Our bus stopped halfway to Bobo and we got out and stretched our legs. I used the bathroom. At that stop it was fine, but it was nothing like the bathroom at the station in Ouaga. It was the most disgusting experience of my life. The smell alone was enough. I hid my nose in my shirt the entire time. And the maggots crawling on the floor were freaking me out. But I survived. It was a bit more hardcore, so Áa va aller.I bought some Dafani juice that was delicious and got back on the bus. My homologue bought some bread and chicken in a bag. If you haven't heard about chicken in a bag, shame on you. It's amazing and when you don't eat a whole lot of meat here, you really appreciate it. He shared that with me and I love him for that. The rest of the trip went by uneventful. I didn't talk much. I know, weird and new for me, but when you don't have a great grasp of the language that's what you're stuck doing. It's probably good for me. Once in Bobo, we met 2 PC staff members. We dropped one man off at the bureau in Bobo, I used the facilities - indoor toilet with running water and an actual toilet seat, so I was living the life for about 5-10 minutes there. Then the PC driver took my homologue and me all the way to our village. It was a very bumpy ride and I'm glad I was strapped in. I saw the 25K I planned on biking and my jaw dropped. The hills are ridiculous and I mean that. Not only are they long and some a bit steep, but they're majorly rocky. (I know majorly isn't an actual word, but I like to use it. :))
We finally arrived to my future village and the first place I saw was my future home. It's this little tiny house with a wavy tin roof. I have two little rooms, one with two windows and the other with one. I have my own walled-in courtyard that should have a door or gate to close it by the time I return. My W.C. is new and has doors that lock on the inside and the outside. My courtyard is huge in comparison to my house. I will have a hanger too.
The house needs to be warmed up with some paint and it just needs to be moved in, but I know it'll work just fine. I plan on making it my own. I have a mattress, a seau (a pretty colored bucket used for bathing (bucket baths), washing, and other things), a little cup to assist with my bucket baths, a container to hold water, and there was a big thing filled with water, but I don't think that's mine to keep. My homologue paid for all of those things. Crazy and nice. I still wonder if I'm supposed to pay him back . . .
Then we went to his house and hung out there, saying hellos to people along the way. He made dinner. First he fried plantains. Then he had two small tin cans. I asked what they were. Sardines. Oh... Then he proceeded to open each can and dump it over the fried plantains. What did you just do, I wondered? I worried because I heard that sardines in the states were really salty and I'm not a fan of salt. I tried it anyways and was pleasantly surprised to find it tasted good. The sardines tasted like the canned trout Lib and I love to eat from Trader Joes.We hung out a bit, then he had two young men get me some water and the 4 of us walked back to my house in the dark. I had my trusty non-battery twisty flashlight on hand and was focusing on the path ahead of me, when I looked up. Holy cow. The stars were the most amazing I had ever seen them. They covered the sky, infinitely more than I had ever seen and more vivid, too. It was so beautifully breathtaking. The rest of my walk "home" I seemed to be in a drunken stupor, because I kept trying to stare up at the sky and walk at the same time - not so simple.
I took a really quick bucket bath under the stars and locked myself in my future home. I became accustomed to the song of the crickets because my house had a bunch of them. It was hot that first night and I couldn't seem to cool down. I knew I should have gotten my hair wet...
I left the following morning at 7:30 after taking another bucket bath and packing my bags for the day. So, I met the entire village that day. We walked around all over the place multiple times. I saw the CSPS and met the 2nd in command, I met the Prefet and saw his house and bureau, I met the surveillant (he takes care of discipline at school) who lives next door to my homologue; my homologue lives about a 60 second walk from the school.It is very important to say hello to people in this culture. Even if you are passing by and don't have time to stop and chat, you need to say hello briefly. If you don't, the person will think you're mean and/or will be offended and then the next time may not talk to you. It's so important for integrating into the community. So, even if I feel completely awkward and uncomfortable and weird, I should at least say hello, because then everyone will be happy.
Oh, I also had to sit through a long meeting to welcome the new econome (bursar). Then I had to sit through a somewhat painful lunch listening to three men try to convince me to marry one or two of them. "It's not possible", I said, "I already have a husband."Then I shook my left hand indicating that he had a ring on his finger and they all laughed. Men! Ridiculous! I guess this is something I have to get used to, but I'm already sick of it after one shot. I've heard some stories about how other women deal with it here. One asked if he knew English. And that no one speaks it in the States, so you have to learn it or you can't go. Another says that her father wants something like twelve goats, five cows, three donkeys, etc. etc. from the man who wants to marry his daughter and that gets a laugh and gets people to stop asking . . . Ideas, ideas.
That night I ate dinner again with my homologue and this time he said since he had cooked the previous night (yeah he "cooked"), that I had to cook tonight. O . . . K. So I boiled spaghetti. Then he gave me the ingredients to make the sauce. I started by adding onions and green peppers with some light seasoning to fish oil from sardines. Then I added two more cans of sardines including their oil, a chunk of tomato paste, and a small maggi cube (basically chicken bouillion). I was worried about how this was going to taste. And again was pleasantly surprised to find it tasted good. And I got to finish it the following morning for breakfast - yum.
The following morning I saw where the mayor works and briefly experienced the marche. I sat down for a bit with a group of men including the chief for my baptism. A baptism here, at least in my case, is when you are given a name. My ride came early and while we were sitting there and I was sitting in a sea of sounds and speaking that I didn't understand. So a name was said and I thought, is that it? Then my homologue spoke it loudly in each ear and then the president of the APE rubbed my head. Gnide. (Pronounced Neenday) It's Jula and means third young lady or third daughter, because I'm the third volunteer they've had at this village. Sweet, so I have a name. They called me it a few times and scolded me in a nice way for not responding - sheesh, lol, I just learned it and I'm not used to it yet!
I spend the rest of the day in a nearby city about 25K away. It's a bigger city and I plan on biking there every week to get veggies and such from the marche. I stayed with a current PCV there and met a married couple that had also been serving for a year at this point. The next day I met Leah's mango ladies and sat with them a bit after having a bike tour of the city and key places: post office, marche, boutique, quincaillerie (hardware store), internet cafes. I helped cut up some dried mangos and enjoyed time with these women who were very sweet and welcoming. They didn't want to call me by my new name and liked Stephanie better. That works for me. They let me try some of the dried mango - delicious! Here they don't add unnecessary sugar to things that are already sweet, so it was great. Then they sent me away with a big bag filled with cut up dried mango. So nice!
I was one of the last to arrive at the PC house because most of my fellow PCT's arrived the day before. One of them told me that the energy level went up about 50% when I got there. That was very sweet. I enjoyed the next day relaxing and staying in an American bubble of comfort. The house was filled with books we could borrow, electricity, wireless internet, and fellow American PCT's and PCV's. Then that evening, an APCD and his wife who both served in the PC invited us into their home for Mexican dinner ? delicious; heaven. We had mango salsa, meat, guacamole, chips, beans and corn . . . so good. Then we biked to Marina Market the next morning to experience an actual super market in Burkina set up like a store in the states - the first I've seen of it's kind. I bought cheese and it was totally worth it. And I bought ice cream. I wouldn't buy the ice cream again, because I'm cheap . . . Then I hopped on a bus back home that afternoon, was crammed into the corner sitting with someone else's suitcase under me for the first half of the ride. I got on the bus after much confusion and frustration, I was a bit tired and definitely hot, so I decided to buy a coke that was somewhat cold or at the very least cool. I took a sip of it and felt like I should be in a coke commercial, because I was content!
Disclaimer: The contents of this page, and all links appearing on this page, do not represent the positions, views or intents of the U.S. Government, or the United States Peace Corps.
Hello Everyone,
So, I've been here for close to 3 weeks and I can't believe it. I feel like I've said this before, but time is passing by quickly. It's already Thursday. I feel like if I blink or close my eyes for too long I'll be at my site finished with training and then at the year mark and then thinking about coming home for real. I know I'm getting ahead of myself, but if time continues to pass like this, that's not far from the reality.
So, things are still going well. I worry that I'm falling into a comfort zone here and that I'm not pushing myself outside of the little box I found. I am comfortable with the few places I know how to bike to, the few places I eat lunch at or buy things at, and I tend not to go much farther from any of those places. I tried to find an internet cafe the other day because it's supposed to be a bit cheaper than the current one I go to, but maybe not as reliable. I ended up biking to a different area I hadn't seen before and definitely got those anxiety nerves in my belly. That's when I realized that maybe I'm allowing myself to remain in a newly formed comfort zone. It's just something to be aware of.
I feel like I'm fitting in more with my family and I definitely feel more comfortable with them, more at ease which is nice, even if my language still has a long way to go. I do feel like I'm learning more and understanding more and improving, even if it isn't as quickly as I'd like (I think what I'd like is completely unrealistic!). I am in love with my little 9-year old brother. He is so freaking cute. He giggles and smiles and seems to have taken to me, which is great. My 14-year old sister continues to be a great help to me and is patient and always helps slow things down and explain things as many times as needed for me to understand.
I started running every morning with a few friends. My little brother ran with us yesterday morning, in flipping flip flops! Talk about hardcoreness. And he ran in pants that weren't staying up well, so he had to stop and readjust a lot. He was so cute. While he was running with us to the field where we meet everyone else, he said Stephanie, do you know the greeting in Mooré (in French of course)? So, I said Ne y yebeoogo to the next woman we ran past... It's a great way to start the morning. And since I go to bed by 9:30 every night, unless I get a phone call, it's a lot easier to get up before 6! 3 days in-a-row so far. We'll see. I hope to keep it up and I might take a break on Sundays and sleep in.
The food is still pretty good, but I do miss American food. We found a place that serves burgers! They're delicious. And they have sorbet and maybe even cheese. Crazy and amazing, I know. It is expensive though, so that'll be a rare treat for me. I hope to receive some sugar-free and salt-free (basically organic) nut/dried fruit mixes in the future. I love that stuff, especially from Trader Joes. Plus it would serve as a great snack. We'll see what else. If anyone can figure out how to send cheese and make it last, I would love them forever! Otherwise I'll stick to my vache qui rit and continue to enjoy that. For Nadège it's the vache qui pleur and when she says he pleurs (cries) for me, I say, no, il souhrit pour moi. (He smiles for me). Delicious. I have it on my break every morning we actually have it available at my house.
Let's see, what else. I'm going to my first wedding this morning. It's another volunteer who has been here for 3 years, named Brian, and he's marrying a Burkinabé woman. And then maybe they're going back to the US, but I'm not so sure.
We have a huge 4th of July celebration on Saturday which will be fun: burgers, salad, frites, and maybe cheese sauce (made by yours truly) and chili to go with the fries. We'll see...
I had my first experience getting ripped off as a Nasaara in the marché. Oh, well, I did get to purchase 2 pagnes, even though I should have paid up to 1600 less for them :( But then Maman went with me to her tailor, so I know I got a good price for the clothes I'm having made, so that should be fun.
All in all, I'm doing well. Missing some people at home, but surviving just fine. I like it here. And the rain has helped cool things off. It comes at least once if not twice a week, so I love that, even with the mud.
Love you. Hope you're all doing well.
Steph
Hello Everyone,
Since my parents are forwarding this on, I figured I'd address it to everyone. I hope everyone is well and I welcome emails and letters! :)
Okay, so I've been here a little under 2 weeks and as I've said before it feels like so much time has passed. Maybe that's because so much has happened, so much has changed, and I have learned so much. I'm getting more comfortable here and with my family. This place is becoming more and more familiar and the language is coming slowly but surely. My language classes are taught by a woman named Zara and I take these classes with one other young woman named Carolyn. She and I were talking today and she said she notices improvements every day and I agree. I am able to understand more when Zara and others speak and I'm beginning to talk more and increase my vocabulary. My end seems to be crawling toward improvement, but it's something. It'll be interesting to see where I am in 2 weeks or in 4 weeks. I am currently in week II according to our schedule and I'm supposed to start teaching a 5 week class during week VI, so we'll see.
The food is much better than I was expecting. I have more variety and I'm getting fruits and vegetables on a regular basis which is nice. I'm trying new things and learning what I do and do not like. As of now there are very few foods I don't like. I need to also learn which foods agree with me and which don't. I will not be eating those that don't for obvious reasons!
I started SE (secondary education) classes this week. We read about a form of teaching that's called the 4MAT program which discusses how to teach to a group of different types of learners. It tries to incorporate a cycle of experience, reflection, conceptualization, and action in order to cover why, what, how, and if questions. All of these are necessary to truly learn and retain something and not just memorize information like the kids do very well here. It'll be something I need to focus on and be aware of. I'll have to find ways of getting my kids to think outside the box and think beyond simply memorizing facts. For example, if I'm teaching an equation in math or physics, after giving them the equation and its applications, I can give them the answer and have them solve for another variable in the equation. If I teach them how to solve for density, which equals mass divided by volume, I can give them the density and mass and have them solve for volume. This will force them beyond route memorization and push them more towards actual learning.
Today we covered lesson plans and had to write our own lesson plans following a specific format. The format includes review, new information including objectives, and practice/evaluation to get the kids involved. We'll see how that goes. I have model school in 4 weeks, so I hope my language and comprehension is good enough by then.
Hmmm.. What else? Quoi d'autre? I washed my clothes for the first time here on Sunday. And no, they don't have washing machines here - not even where I live. So this was my washing experience. You get two big plastic bowls and one plastic bucket. You go out to the back of the house where the hose is and fill the plastic bucket full with water. Then you bring it to the bowls and pour some in each bowl so they're half full. The bucket will be a quarter to half full by this point. Then you grab a few items of clothing and throw the into the first bowl of water. You soak them. Then you grab your bar of soap (aka Burkinabé detergent - they use this soap to wash everything I believe) and you scrub your item of clothing with the bar of soap. Then you stretch a small area of it between your hands and scrub one side on the inside of your wrist and then the other on your other wrist. You do this with all parts of your item of clothing. Then you ring it out and drop it in the next bowl. Then you repeat, using less soap and probably not spending as much time on it. You ring it out and drop it into the bucket. The bucket is the rinse cycle. You rinse out your clothing and ring it out again. Then you shake out your item, turn it inside out if necessary and hang it on the line. They even have plastic clips for the windier days. Then you repeat with the rest of your clothes, possibly emptying out your rinse water into a bowl, if you want less soap-filled water for rinsing. I'm not sure if I got all the soap out, but I'm wearing an entire outfit today of my Burkinabé-washed clothes and I'm not having any issues. And they smell clean. The only thing is that some were a little stiff after drying, but no biggie. Oh, another thing, all clothing including bras can be hung on the line, but your underwear cannot - that you leave to dry in your room. I found a nice little someone hidden spot on the bottom shelf of my table because it was a wire checkered shelf. Oh, also, my khaki capris were filthy. They were covered in dirt/sand and had taken on a darker tan color and the bottoms had dirt all over them. ?So, Nadesh (my sister who actually helped wash all my clothes, except my underpants - she might have helped with those, too, but I didn't want her to) pulled out the wash board and a large scrub brush and went to town on my capris. She did a fantastic job and got everything out!. They look just like new. I wonder if I'll be able to do as good a job as she. Well we'll see. I think I may do laundry ever other week, because I'm cheap (don't want to buy soap every week) and I don't think I need to wash my clothing more than that.
So, I'm more comfortable now and I'm coming into my own. I still need to spend a lot of time on my language, but I think I'll try to spend some extra time on it each night or something like that.
I hope you're all doing well. I miss you. I do miss home and a lot of the food because I just love US food. So, you can send chocolate, nut mix, candy, anything yummy to snack on, tuna/salmon in a bag, organic drink mix to add to water (Lib, you know what it is :)), breakfast bars (especially the peanut nature valley or the ones with yogurt, or anything organic) I'll let you know more later. Maybe I'll try mac and cheese out of a box once I'm at site....
Stephanie
We called Stephanie on Saturday after extensive research into international phone cards. It seems these are many different plans that appear to be designed to be as complicated as possible to make it difficult to compare. This, I suspect, is yet another shining example of creative marketing. There are plans designed for calling Burkina Faso line phones and different ones for calling cell phones. The obvious card issue is the per minute charge. Looking beyond the obvious there are other charges. Some cards carry an annual fee. There are some with monthly charges and some with weekly charges. We looked at one-minute rounding, two-minute rounding . three-minute rounding and even four-minute rounding. This rounding concept is not really explained anywhere. They must assume it to be fairly straight-forward but I think they should tell you anyway. They do not. We found cards with PIN numbers and some without. Then there are other hidden fees and surcharges than need to be evaluated.
We settled on the nobelcom.com plan which seems to be the best deal for our projected usage To put this into perspective, we have the Time Warner all-in-one plan for our home phone for domestic calls just about for free after you factor in the costs of cable and the internet. The rate they quoted to add international calling, when I inquired, would be six times the cost of the nobelcom card for three hundred minutes.
Once the international phone card decision was made, we waited for one of the times Stephanie had said would be available to take our call. After some confusion over which number to dial (the 800 number is more expensive than the local number we were provided with), we punched in the 31-digit sequence required to reach her Peace Corps-issued cell phone and counted the rings until she picked up.
She said her host family is doing better than some others in that they have a house with a shower inside. She lives in a small bedroom in a single-story house. The bed fits in her room with a few feet to spare on either side.
In addition to the family of four, there are several other people who Stephanie suspects may be cousins living with them in the clay house. She ran down the names and it sounded like there may be as many as 10 people living under one roof.
Emma is the trainee living with a host family across the street. Kathy mentioned how that was her grandmother’s name.
The host family is catholic. Stephanie has not been to mass with them yet but is looking forward to going to see how mass in French compares to mass in English. One of Kathy’s co-workers thought it might be faster to learn Mooré if she attends mass in that language.
Some of the training takes place in classrooms at ECLA which is a non-governmental organization or NGO that is an acronym for Etre Comme Les Autres or “to be like others”. ECLA has a "care and support" medical center and several schools that teach skills like cabinetmaking, carpentry, sewing and handicrafts. Its activities range from ARV treatment (Antiretroviral treatment) to emergency assistance. One of the primary activities of this organization is to work with PLHA or Persons Living with HIV/AIDS. ECLA works to satisfy that group’s needs with an integrated and global approach. Having learned this, it seems logical that the Peace Corps would coordinate the training of each generation of volunteers with such an organization.
The Burkinabe in Ouahigouya speak French and Mooré. They smile a lot and laugh a lot. Stephanie and Carolyn, another Peace Corps Trainee are working with a Burkina woman to become more fluent in French. Nadesh, the 14-year-old daughter of the host family is also helping with her French.

There are outdoor shelters called hangars that the Peace Corps uses for some of the training. The trainees can be outside where the temperatures are more comfortable than they would be indoors. The hangars have slim wooden columns supporting a structural frame with a thatch roof overhead to provide shade for the concrete benches below. Language, medical and cultural training begins at 8 a.m. Monday through Friday with 2 language sessions on Saturday. Lunch lasts an hour and half before the afternoon sessions begin.
The food in Burkina Faso is very good. One of the recent meals she ate included fish, cucumbers, onions and tomatoes. She eats green vegetables once a day.
The Peace Corps provided the trainees with filters for water. Stephanie has been careful not to drink any unfiltered water and has not experienced any unpleasant side-effects as a result. She said others have not been as lucky.
The first night in Ouahigouya, the trainees were invited to dinner at a local physician’s house. The host gave a speech in which he mentioned the avocations of some of the visitors from across the ocean. At one point he said, “There is a beekeeper among you and also a basketball player”, referring to Stephanie. When he mentioned that she was from Syracuse, a cheer was heard from another trainee toward the rear of the room. Stephanie found out later that the person cheering was a young lady named Jennifer, also from Syracuse.
Stephanie was disappointed to learn that the information about jewelry she was given while preparing for her trip was not accurate. She said she could have taken some of her favorite jewelry with her after all. Her host mother let her borrow a pair of earrings. She is preparing a list of items that we may wish to ship to her that will include specific items of jewelry.
Stephanie said she gets to bed by 10 or 11 p.m.
The following is an actual conversation that took place during luch:
Karen: “What is that smell?”
Larry: “Lasagna”
Karen: “Lasagna?”
Larry: “Lasagna”
Karen: “Eew that’s nasty”
Larry: “Hey Tim, Karen thinks your food smells nasty”
Tim: "OK, I'll eat this in the conference room."
Karen: “That’s Tim’s? I thought it was your food”
Larry: “Nope; Tim’s”
Karen: “Now I feel bad”
Larry: “Why is it ok to say things about MY food but you feel bad if you say the same things about Tim’s food?”
Tom: “Maybe Tim is fragile.”
Larry: ”Hey Tim. Are you fragile?”
Tim: “Yes. Fragile. Definitely fragile.”